When Hair Color Goes Haywire- The Mysteries Explained….

  It’s inevitable that at some point in our careers we all experience the “oops” moments. Most are relatively simple, easily corrected situations- maybe we were rushing, trying to squeeze  one more single in between the full highlight and color correction…  We’ve all been there- and can usually handle any situation the Color Gods may throw our way with total confidence. But what do you do when the inexplicable happens? When there is no logical explanation that you can come up with for what you are seeing in your client’s hair.  You know who I’m talking about! The one who keeps turning orange on her base no matter what shade of ash you use. Or the one who won’t lift in certain areas or one specific side of her head. Or how about the one with the scalp that lights up like a Christmas tree no matter how much Sweet and Low you dump in her formula? Yes, you know exactly who and what I’m talking about…and I’m going to demystify these situations for you…

 #1- The Super Duper Sensitive Scalp- you can recognize her from across the room- she’s usually fanning herself with a magazine and vigorously scratching her scalp with the end of tail comb.  Here are the possibilities:

A-     She works out

B-     She scrubbed while shampooing with hot water

C-      She’s been drinking coffee or other caffeinated beverages

D-      It’s that time of the month (Yep, you read it right)

 Any and all of the above will cause scalp sensitivity, discomfort, itching and burning even as long as 48 hours after. Perspiration and a vigorous shampoo in a hot shower will both leave the pores on the scalp open.  I liken it to gargling with hydrogen peroxide. (Yes, I speak from experience.  In my infinite wisdom and an attempt to brighten my smile, pre bleaching strips, I made the attempt and almost skyrocketed through the ceiling of my bathroom). Also, to the surprise of many, caffeine can also cause scalp discomfort.  It’s amazing how many people have extreme sensitivity to caffeine and don’t even know it.  Pay attention to your client’s routines and dietary habits the next time she comes in- she may have to skip the gym , the skinny vanilla latte or diet coke prior to her color service.  And finally…ever been waxed or visited the dentist during your time of the month? If you’ve done it once, I’m willing to bet you’ll never do it again….EVERYTHING is ten times more sensitive during menstruation and hormonal fluctuations- the seemingly normal eyebrow wax can feel like a medieval torture method- so imagine what a little hair color mixed with peroxide can do…..

 #2 – The overly porous, hot root, always orange, won’t lift evenly , impossible to cover grey client.

I’m lumping all of these situations together because any and all of them can be attributed to the following:

A-     Once again, good old hormones….be it that time of the month or in the case of a more mature clientele, menopause…hormones can wreak sheer havoc on hair color and more often than not explains the inexplicable.

B-      Medication- It takes the human body an average of three months to acclimate to medicine. During that time and in some cases even longer, hair color can be extremely unpredictable.  Thyroid medications have been known to be particularly troublesome.

C-      Hard / heavily mineralized water- it’s a killer on gray coverage- and great for causing brassy orange, sometimes green hues in the hair.

So…now that we understand the causes, how can we deal with them?  Aside from the obvious like avoiding the gym, cutting back on caffeine and vigorous shampoos- have your clients keep you up to date on any meds they may be taking- even if it’s something as routine as a birth control pill….and as crazy as it sounds…have them avoid scheduling color appointments during their time of the month- just as they would avoid waxing.

When a client has known scalp sensitivities or color issues, you should always take extra precautions with the tools Lakme provides:

1-      Prior to color application (or even for people who are sensitive to blow drying, brushing or extensions), shampoo and condition with K Therapy Sensitive with cotton peptides, aloe vera and bisabolol- it works wonders.

2-       You can also line the scalp prior to service with the new Master Care Scalp Protector with natural anti oxidants, vitamin F, W-6 and gamma lineolic acid. It won’t affect color penetration and provides deep hydration and soothing comfort to even the most sensitive skin.

3-      If your client starts to experience discomfort during or after processing, dab Master Care Tonic with green algae and babassu milk on the scalp directly from the tube or with a cotton ball to provide immediate relief.

4-      If hard water is wreaking havoc on hair color, use Teknia’s refreshing  Extreme Cleanse astringent shampoo with green tea and fruit acids prior to coloring to remove build up and residues. Extreme Cleanse will also prevent environmental pollutants otherwise known as free radicals, from sticking to the hair.

5-      For extreme cases that may need more than a clarifier- no need for a bleach bath! Use 0/00 in Collage with your developer of choice – with its conditioning soy protein base, it’s an effective yet gentle alternative.

6-      Utilize Master Care Lotion made with marine algae extract and cationic ingredients on the mid shaft and ends prior to pulling color through to balance porosity and ensure an even, shiny finish.

There you have it my friends!  A few of the myths, mysteries and horrors of hair color debunked for you! Remember, every situation is different- and clear communication with your client is step number one to avoiding any potential hair color catastrophes…but with Lakme’s help- you have everything you need to achieve the perfect end result- even when Mother Nature and modern medicine inadvertently work against us…

Happy coloring!